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although segment sales have eased along with most everything else, accessories are poised to make the quickest comeback, asserts Marshal Cohen, senior analyst for market research firm NPD Group. "I discount tiffany rings this because accessories are a more affordable way to update one's wardrobe. That is true across other consumer products categories, too, whether it is electronics or automobiles."And licensed accessories could be an area that helps ignite overall apparel sales, says Wendy Liebmann, president of WSL Strategic Retail in New York. "The notion that women stop buying accessories is not true. The right item and especially the right license will motivate them. And it is true they might feel less guilty about an accessories than an entire outfit."The data hasn't begun to show the gains yet, but Cohen is "waiting anxiously" for the numbers to track accessories making a move upward. Some sub-segments are already improving. Belts are up 14 percent from 2008, according to NPD. Small leather goods are up 1 percent and gloves 4 percent. Taking the biggest hit was jewelry at 22 percent.MAGICs discount tiffany pendants recognize the importance of accessories in today's apparel business. As part of new advances to the show (see sidebar), accessories are integrated into the ready-to-wear presentation in the same show hall. According to Chris DeMoulin, president of MAGIC International and executive vice president of the Advanstar Fashion Group, the integration helps retailers envision how all of the pieces and trends of the business work together. To further enhance that, MAGIC has moved into footwear with FN Platform.

"We want to give buyers the whole market from head to toe and to see all of the fashion trends by category," says DeMoulin. He adds this helps retailers with multiple sales, especially as more merchants adapt boutique-style presentations in stores.Several major trends cut across the accessories universe for 2010, including more sparkle and shine, less expensive materials, eco-friendly positionings, lifestyle licenses and an editing of selection to target each retailer's specific audience. Most retailers are also hoping to do more with less, cutting inventories to emerge with discount tiffany bangles sell-throughs.At Sears, for example, company executives say they've tightened the accessory selection to make room for a larger beauty presentation, yet given it more pizzazz in merchandising to attract shoppers. At Walmart, the new Project Impact program with fewer aisle-cluttering displays, wider aisles and better signage is helping the chain tout its licenses. "The new store layout really helps you see the Miley Cyrus & Max Azria program," says Liebmann. Licenses remain a core for retailers as evidenced by the success of the Carlos Falchi handbag collection for Target.

While retailers experiment with new formats to make shopping easier, suppliers are finding items they hope will stop customers in their tracks. Kenny Horowitz, president of New York-based Daniel M. Friedman, a handbag and belt maker, whose licenses include Betsey Johnson, Steven Madden and a new deal with Elizabeth and James, says consumers are looking for something different in belts. The trends call for sequins, shine, metallic and patent leather for 2010. Belt looks will be wider and there will be more cinches with elastic.In both belts and handbags, Horowitz says manufacturers are using different materials to offer fair pricing. "We are also seeing a much bigger resurgence in non-leather product because of the price of discount tiffany cuff links. Leather bags more than $300 have been a tough sell. So we are seeing a big push toward PVC, nylon and non-leather fabrics," notes Horowitz. After a strong run, even handbags suffered under the recession. "This has been the first year in seven years where handbag business has been soft," observes Horowitz. "But it has strengthened in the last two months. Business has gotten better in the fourth quarter, although it has been more promotional. At least they [retailers] are selling merchandise. It has been a tough year."Believing that the coming year will be better, some companies are broadening offerings. Exhibiting a sign of optimism, Abe Chehebar, chief executive officer of Accessory Network Group, says his company is expanding its accessory division next year. Both its Bebe and Bisou Bisou brands will be launching cold weather collections for department stores in fall 2010. It is also partnering with Bisou Bisou founder Michele Bohbot on a spring 2010 handbag collection that will be exclusive to JCPenney. Chehebar describes the line as "trend-forward, elegant and flirty."