Autocross Blogs - Chrls Iicey

With tiny spectacles perched crookedly on his nose and a cheap tiffany rings of molasses-hued tresses, Haider Ackermann lounges on the patio of Yorkville boutique 119 Corbò. A tiny bird's head, cast in silver, and a swatch of crocodile skin hang from his neck alongside a mysterious glass capsule filled with rough stones. "They are real diamonds," Ackermann admits of the contrast to the rest of his attire, a quiet mix of loose fatigues. "That's what I like about it, that nobody would expect this from me." Also unexpected? That one of Paris's most respected designers would mount his first North American presentation in Toronto. The clothes have only just arrived after a nightmare delay in customs, yet Ackermann exudes tranquility wrapped in a blanketsize cashmere scarf. He's here at the request of friend Linda Perisa, the statuesque proprietor of 119 Corbò, an emporium for in-the-know labels including Ackermann 's, Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester (all alumnae of Antwerp's prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts). One of his earliest supporters, Perisa persuaded Ackermann to bring his praised fall collection to town.2:35 p.m. STORYTELLINGAckermann launched his collection in 2001, yet remains a fashion enigma. What is know is that he was bom in Columbia and raised by a loving French family who moved frequently. While his label is shown in Paris, he also has a base in Belgium where his designs conjure up a woman with worldly tendencies. Luckily, the private designer who prefers to keep his life cheap tiffany pendants of the limelight is in a talkative mood today. Ackermann's socially minded father was first a cartographer and now works with Amnesty International in France. Naturally, the Ackermann clan placed foreign aid high above fashion. This explains his childhood moves to Algeria, Chad, Ethiopia and Holland. "My father's job is to help society rebuild countries. He has a deep generosity to help others. I think I might be more selfish than that," admits Ackermann. Yet his globe-trotting upbringing shows up again and again in Ackermann's presentation of a modern voyageur's wardrobe.

Though his memories of Africa are more mosaic than photographic, he alludes to the influence cultural dress had on his aesthetic. "Everything was hidden behind the chador [the traditional full-length cloak], so I could only get a peek of the fuchsia, red, blue and gold hiding underneath. As a child I was allowed on the woman's side, where there was so much glittering, it hurt your eyes," he says of the local style, which couldn't be more different than cheap tiffany bangles Antwerp attitude. "Belgium is sober and respectful. To have seen both sides was very challenging," says Ackermann. Yet, if you look at his work, an international spirit appears. From Corsica he developed a predilection for pops of lapis blue, while respectful head coverings and fluid silhouettes that drape from regal frames stem from African practice. Meanwhile, a Belgian sensibility can be seen in his collection's utilitarian zippers, sedate palette and touches of subtle luxury. This evening, he promises to merge both these worlds on the runway. "Where will I take you tonight? Somewhere where there is a kind of fragility, a search for elegance and feniininity," says Ackennann. Hearing hini speak about his woman is akin to a director schooling his leading lady on her character. "We are all fragile in life. Sometimes our relationships end after many years, but you have to stand tall. This is what my woman is about," he notes, suggesting a hidden heartbreak behind every long skirt that sweeps down his catwalk.

5:08 p.m. THE SHOWMANBackstage at the Royal Ontario Museum, Ackermann is less breezy, more business. As delicate makeup and hyper-coiffed hair transforms 20 of Canada's lankiest models, he inspects the unfamiliar setting while hiding a glass of champagne behind his scarf. Hushed French is relayed between him and his assistants. "We want to caress [the audience]," he says. "I would like people to peacefully absorb the collection and take them away from their lives cheap tiffany cufflinks 10 minutes. If I succeed in that, I succeed with my show."6:37 p.m. SIREN CALLSuddenly, a fire alarm pierces the air. I hear many Mon Dieu's as more champagne is poured. While we wait, models divulge what's been hiding in their 119 Corbò bags: gifts from the designer and Persia. Out come long, gauzy tank-dresses in soot or slate. Chatter fills the clanging space over how they will style it for multiple go-sees. Ackermann has his own brand of go-sees, as his name is often speculated about for the top design job at labels including Madame Grès and Maison Martin Margiela. "We've been approached by many houses, but it's like a marriage. It should be the perfect person and the right timing," says the designer on his vow to remain single until he meets The One. Finally, the alarm ceases and Ackermann softly commands rehearsals to order.